Posted by: newenglandsup | June 16, 2009

Day of Dreams

Last Saturdays surf session is going to have to last for awhile and thankfully it was the stuff of dreams.

I’m not going to be able to be on the water for 4-6 weeks starting Wednesday when I have a hole drilled in my head to remove a small tumor. I’ve been hoping for a memorable session to carry with me but for the most part the surf has been poor to mediocre the last few weeks whenever I’ve been able to get out. Saturday was the bomb.

I was headed down the Cape anyway despite the forecast for small waves when I called my friend Shawn. He said it was shoulder high and glassy. What a difference a day makes. Friday was small with a lot of chop, cool, cloudy and windy, folks walking the beach with jackets on. Saturday…great sets, almost glass, sunny, warm, with bikinis…:)

Jumped in paddled over to the break, continuous glassy waist to shoulder waves…a rare one head high. One other SUP out and two longboarders. Lots of waves for all.

I’m still the only one in boardshorts though…what’s up with that? Come on fellow standups. One of the great things about being on top of your board is getting rid of the wetsuit early. Air was 70 and the water 59…nice and sunny.

Endless nice waves….left and right, great vibe on the water. After about an hour the others had left and I was out all alone. Paddling towards 2 seals and they dive and swing wide of my board. Then the big one starts following me. I thought he was going to bite my leash at one point. The other one which had been swimming nearby came over then the two took off with a big splash. I wonder what the hell was going through their heads? I also watched as a seal caught a fish in just a few feet of crystal clear water just a short distance from my board.

What other great stuff can happen in one day….cue the whales just beyond the break. Feels like Maui only not…:) Then to put an exclamation point on a great day I find a rebound wave at the break that is rideable on a standup. The 1st time I rode it was by mistake! Paddling hard for some whitewater and all of a sudden I’m surfing….wrong way. Hit the wedge and the sudden peak in the wave and my speed blew me 5′ in the air. After that I was looking for it. Managed to catch it a few more times. Once I was able to make it over 3 oncoming waves and the jump over the last one was a blast…airborn. Felt like a kid again.

So that’s what I’ll be dreaming about.

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