Posted by: newenglandsup | November 30, 2008

Must be the Tryptophan!

Absolutely epic conditions at Whitecrest today. Where was everyone…sleeping off the turkey? Head high plus with some occasional double overhead bombs and it was all but empty. Just me for most of the day then a few longboarders and a surfski later.

I had a real rough start…my head was all screwed up..so much so that I got pounded and went through a scary double hold down courtesy of a set of bombs that caught me too deep. Got to work on my cardio and maybe start wearing an impact vest on days like this when I’m out there alone. Would not have been cool to have my wife watch me drown from the cliff.  I wouldn’t normally be concerened with waves this size but it was a wierd hold down (standing on my head and spinning) and the 1st wave impact knocked all the breath out of me. Second wave caught me before I surfaced and started the washing machine again. Had me thinking ..”oh shit”…until I grabbed my leash and hauled myself up. Breathed a gallon of foam and was wiped out but glad to be holding the tail and able to keep my head above the rest of the set.

I need to fire my videographer (but she makes such a great lasagna…:) ). I actually did finally manage to catch some nice waves for long runs with some walks near the nose but the best she caught was a small short closeout. Oh well…at least she’s cute.

Looks like another nice swell coming early in the week. Should be nice on Tuesday if the forecast holds.

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Responses

  1. first of all, bob — great blog! and i can’t wait to read more about your NE experiences. As to your hold down: they freak me out. I don’t think I’ve ever had a two-wave hold down, but reading your description has me wondering how I would have done. Not so well as you. I better up the cardio, esp with winter coming on, when I usually find myself half exhausted after the first one or two waves.
    glad you got some biguns, tho. we had 2′-3’ers here in RI, and hail along with them. a blast, really, and I got one or two xtra xtra long rides at that spot where we went out over the summer.
    do that wave you’re riding usually hold up? i hate closouts like that!
    finally: I know you’re hoping that Mrs. Claus will bring you a Werner adjustable, as I am too. But I’m also looking at the Methane. Have you thought about that one???

  2. Hey Linter,

    Yeah it was a bit spooky. It was a much bigger set than the rest and caught me by surprise. Thought I had a chance but should have paddled out instead of in. I was stupid to try and make it. I was still low on the wave when it broke and it hit me right across the middle of my back like a ton of bricks and just slammed me.

    The spot where I was doing most of my surfing was about 2 or 300 yards to the right of where I am in the vid and the waves break nicely and peel for some long rides there. I had actually just surfed over to this spot when my wife got out of the truck to video this little wave. I guess I can’t blame her..it was a bit chilly and windy on top of the dunes and she couldn’t see me from inside the truck when I was over there.

    Kialoa makes nice paddles too but you know how stoked I am with my Werner Spanker. I haven’t tried either the carve or the methane. The design of the Carve is what grabs me. It looks like it will be great for a fast cadence but still move water nicely.


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